Glossary of Terms
Glossary of terms on hair discrimination, textured hair science, identity-based bias, and anti-discrimination policy — from aesthetic trauma to trichoscopy.
A Comprehensive Reference
CROWN’s glossary provides clear, evidence-based definitions for the terminology used across our research, policy analysis, and educational resources. Terms span hair science, discrimination studies, legal frameworks, therapeutic modalities, and institutional structures.
This glossary is maintained alongside CROWN’s Knowledge Library and reflects the terminology used in our CROWN Discrimination Index research, legislative analysis, and clinical protocol documentation. Where terms have specific technical meanings in CROWN’s work, those meanings are noted.
Select a letter below to navigate, or browse the complete list. Each entry includes links to relevant CROWN resources where you can explore the topic in depth.
A
Appearance-Based Discrimination
Unfavourable treatment of individuals based on aspects of their physical appearance, including hair, skin tone, body size, and facial features. Appearance-based discrimination intersects with racial, gender, and disability discrimination and is increasingly the subject of legislative attention, particularly in France and Belgium. CROWN's work focuses on the hair-specific dimension of this broader category.
Aesthetic Trauma
Psychological harm resulting from sustained exposure to appearance-based discrimination, stigmatisation, or pressure to conform to dominant beauty standards. The Association of Black Psychologists has formally designated hair discrimination as a form of aesthetic trauma. Symptoms may include diminished self-esteem, identity conflict, anxiety in professional settings, and avoidance behaviours related to natural appearance.
Afro-Textured Hair
Hair characterised by tight coils, dense growth patterns, and distinctive structural features including elliptical cross-section shape and high shrinkage. Afro-textured hair encompasses Walker types 4A, 4B, and 4C and is found predominantly in individuals of African and Afro-Caribbean descent. This hair type is disproportionately subject to discrimination, restrictive grooming policies, and pressure to chemically alter — the core issues CROWN exists to address.
AI Hair Diagnostics
The application of machine learning and artificial intelligence to analyse hair characteristics from sensor data or images. CROWN's AI classification engine translates multi-modal sensor data (optical, spectroscopic, electrical) into unified CROWN Hair DNA profiles. A critical challenge in this field is ensuring equal accuracy across all hair types — most existing AI hair tools are trained predominantly on straight and wavy hair, systematically underperforming on textured hair.
Aromatherapy (Therapeutic)
The clinical use of essential oils to support psychological and physiological wellbeing through olfactory-limbic system modulation. In CROWN's 360° Protocol, aromatherapy is positioned as a supportive modality — not a standalone therapeutic — used to create safe sensory anchors that support the participant's therapeutic process. The olfactory system's direct connection to the limbic system (which governs emotion and memory) makes scent a powerful tool for creating positive associations.
Association Loi 1901
The French legal framework for non-profit associations, established by the Law of 1 July 1901. An association loi 1901 enables non-profit operations in France, including eligibility for mécénat tax benefits. CROWN plans to establish a French association (planned Q3 2026) to facilitate operations in France alongside the Swiss headquarters.
Afro
A hairstyle in which Afro-textured hair is allowed to grow naturally into a rounded shape. The Afro became a powerful symbol of Black pride and resistance during the civil rights movement of the 1960s and 1970s. Despite its cultural significance, the Afro is frequently targeted by discriminatory grooming policies. It is explicitly protected under most CROWN Act legislation.
African Diaspora
The global community of people of African descent living outside the African continent, resulting from historical migration, the transatlantic slave trade, and contemporary migration. In Europe, the African diaspora is estimated at over 15 million people. Hair discrimination disproportionately affects members of the African diaspora, making it a central population for CROWN's research and advocacy.
Autonomic Nervous System
The part of the nervous system that controls involuntary bodily functions, including heart rate, digestion, and stress responses. It comprises the sympathetic ('fight or flight') and parasympathetic ('rest and digest') branches. Chronic discrimination activates the sympathetic nervous system, leading to sustained stress. CROWN's 360° Protocol uses breathwork and yoga to activate the parasympathetic response and restore autonomic balance.
B
Braids
Hairstyles created by interweaving three or more strands of hair. Braids are among the oldest known hairstyles, with archaeological evidence dating back 30,000 years. For many African, Afro-Caribbean, and Indigenous communities, braids carry cultural, spiritual, and social significance. Braids are explicitly named as a protected hairstyle in most CROWN Act legislation.
Bantu Knots
A hairstyle created by sectioning the hair and twisting each section into a small coiled bun. Bantu knots have deep roots in the Zulu and broader Bantu-speaking cultures of Southern and Eastern Africa. They serve as both a standalone style and a method for creating defined curls when uncoiled. Bantu knots are explicitly protected under most CROWN Act legislation.
Breathwork (Pranayama)
Structured breathing exercises derived from yogic tradition that regulate the autonomic nervous system. Pranayama techniques activate the parasympathetic nervous system, reducing cortisol levels and promoting calm. In CROWN's 360° Protocol, breathwork is used for autonomic nervous system regulation, helping participants manage acute stress responses triggered by discrimination encounters.
Breakage Susceptibility Index
A component of the CROWN Hair DNA profile that quantifies a hair strand's vulnerability to breakage based on fibre diameter, cuticle condition, protein integrity, and hydration level. Higher breakage susceptibility is common in chemically treated hair, providing an objective measure of damage that may result from conformity pressure.
C
CROWN Discrimination Index (CDI)
A proprietary composite metric being developed by CROWN, drawing on methodological expertise at the University of Geneva, to quantify the prevalence, intensity, and economic impact of identity-based discrimination. The CDI integrates survey-based measurement calibrated against hardware-verified diagnostic data, severity-weighted scoring, and economic quantification. It is modelled on established indices such as the Human Development Index and Gender Inequality Index.
CROWN Hair DNA
CROWN's proprietary multi-dimensional hair profile generated by the CROWN Diagnostic device. CROWN Hair DNA captures 12 or more objective dimensions of hair characteristics — including fibre diameter, cross-section ellipticity, cuticle condition, porosity index, hydration level, and protein integrity — replacing subjective visual assessment systems with sensor-verified, reproducible measurements.
CROWN Act
The Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act, first enacted in California in 2019. The CROWN Act prohibits discrimination based on natural hair texture and protective hairstyles by expanding the legal definition of race in anti-discrimination statutes. As of 2024, twenty-four US states have enacted CROWN Act legislation. The movement has inspired similar legislative efforts internationally, including France's Proposition de loi Serva.
Cuticle
The outermost layer of the hair shaft, composed of overlapping keratinised cells arranged like shingles on a roof. The cuticle's condition determines porosity, shine, and resistance to damage. Chemical treatments, heat styling, and environmental exposure damage the cuticle layer. CROWN's optical micro-imaging assesses cuticle layer count and condition as part of the CROWN Hair DNA profile.
Cortex
The middle layer of the hair shaft, comprising the majority of the hair's mass. The cortex contains melanin (determining colour), keratin protein chains (determining strength), and internal moisture. The shape and structure of the cortex determine whether hair is straight, wavy, curly, or coily. CROWN's NIR spectroscopy assesses cortex protein integrity and hydration.
Curl Pattern
The natural shape that hair forms as it grows, determined by the shape of the hair follicle and the structure of the cortex. Curl pattern ranges from completely straight to tightly coiled. While the Walker system classifies curl patterns visually (1A–4C), CROWN's diagnostic approach measures the underlying structural characteristics — fibre cross-section shape, diameter variance, and cortex structure — that produce the visible curl pattern.
Chemical Relaxers
Products containing strong chemicals (typically sodium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide) used to permanently straighten curly or coily hair by breaking and reforming the hair's disulfide bonds. A 2022 NIH study linked frequent use of chemical hair straighteners to a 1.5 times increased risk of uterine cancer. The prevalence of chemical relaxer use is directly connected to conformity pressure from hair discrimination — a link that CROWN's research quantifies through the CDI.
Cornrows
A style of braiding in which the hair is braided flat against the scalp in continuous, raised rows. Cornrows have been worn for thousands of years across Africa and carry cultural significance related to age, social status, kinship, and ethnicity. Cornrow patterns can be intricate and geometrically complex. Cornrows are protected under CROWN Act legislation.
Cross-Section Ellipticity
The ratio of the major axis to the minor axis of a hair strand's cross-section. Straight hair tends toward circular cross-sections (ellipticity near 1.0), while curly and coily hair has increasingly elliptical cross-sections. Cross-section ellipticity is a key structural determinant of curl pattern and is measured by CROWN's optical micro-imaging system.
Chemical Treatment History
A record of chemical processes applied to hair, including relaxers, permanent waves, keratin treatments, and colour treatments. CROWN's NIR spectroscopy can non-destructively detect chemical residues and structural changes indicative of past chemical treatments. Chemical treatment history is significant for CROWN's research because the prevalence of chemical straightening is a measurable indicator of conformity pressure from discrimination.
Cognitive Behavioural Therapy (CBT)
A structured, evidence-based psychotherapeutic approach that identifies and restructures negative thought patterns and behaviours. In CROWN's 360° Protocol, CBT is applied specifically to challenge and restructure internalised beauty standards, self-worth beliefs connected to hair and appearance, and cognitive distortions resulting from identity-based discrimination. CBT has the strongest evidence base among the protocol's six modalities.
CSRD (Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive)
An EU directive requiring large companies and listed SMEs to report on sustainability matters, including social and human rights impacts. Under CSRD, companies must disclose anti-discrimination policies and outcomes. CROWN's CDI provides a quantifiable metric that companies can use to benchmark and report on hair discrimination within their ESG reporting obligations.
CERV Programme
The Citizens, Equality, Rights and Values programme of the European Union (2021-2027), with a budget of EUR 1.55 billion. CERV funds projects promoting equality and combating discrimination. CROWN's CDI research and legislative tracking align with CERV's equality and non-discrimination objectives, making it a potential funding pathway for European-scale research.
CROWN Hair Commons
Europe's first open, multi-ethnic, sensor-verified hair dataset, aggregating anonymised CROWN Hair DNA profiles with demographic data, product usage information, and CDI survey responses. The target is 100,000+ multi-dimensional profiles by 2030. The Hair Commons provides the training data for CROWN's AI classification engine and the population-scale data for CDI research.
Colourism
Discrimination based on skin colour, typically privileging lighter skin tones over darker ones. Colourism operates both between racial groups and within them. Texturism is closely related to colourism, as straighter hair textures are often privileged alongside lighter skin. CROWN's CDI methodology accounts for the intersection of colourism and texturism in measuring discrimination.
Capillary Discrimination
The French-language term for hair discrimination (discrimination capillaire), used in the Proposition de loi Serva. The term encompasses discrimination based on hair texture, length, colour, and style. Its adoption in French legislative language reflects the growing recognition of hair as a protected characteristic in European legal discourse.
CROWN Diagnostic
A multi-sensor device being developed by CROWN, with guidance from researchers at ETH Zürich, that performs comprehensive hair strand analysis in 60 to 90 seconds. The device integrates four sensor modalities: optical micro-imaging, near-infrared spectroscopy, impedance sensing, and AI classification. Every scan contributes anonymised data to the CROWN Hair Commons. The CROWN Diagnostic is framed as research infrastructure serving the anti-discrimination mission.
Conformity Spending
Economic expenditure by individuals on products and services aimed at altering their natural hair to conform to dominant beauty standards. Conformity spending includes chemical relaxers, keratin treatments, heat styling tools, and wigs or extensions used to approximate straight hair. CROWN's CDI quantifies conformity spending as one dimension of the economic cost of hair discrimination.
Career Deflection
The phenomenon whereby individuals avoid certain career paths, decline promotions, or leave positions due to real or perceived hair discrimination in those roles or industries. Career deflection is an economic consequence of discrimination that CROWN's CDI seeks to quantify, as it represents a hidden cost that does not appear in traditional wage gap analyses.
CROWN Discrimination Impact Scale
A bespoke psychological assessment instrument developed for use in CROWN's 360° Protocol clinical validation. The scale measures the severity and impact of identity-based appearance discrimination on an individual's psychological wellbeing, complementing standardised instruments such as the PHQ-9, GAD-7, and Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale.
D
Digital Therapeutics
Evidence-based therapeutic interventions delivered through software programs to prevent, manage, or treat medical conditions. While CROWN's 360° Protocol is delivered in person, it incorporates digital tools for progress tracking, guided exercises, and remote follow-up between sessions. The integration of diagnostic data from the CROWN Diagnostic into therapeutic pathways represents a novel digital therapeutics approach.
Deep Hair Phenomics
A comprehensive approach to characterising hair at the molecular, structural, and phenotypic levels using advanced analytical methods. The term was used by Washington State University researchers in a 2024 Journal of Investigative Dermatology study that demonstrated multi-dimensional hair characterisation beyond simple curl classification. CROWN's diagnostic methodology builds upon this deep phenomics approach.
Défenseur des droits
The French Defender of Rights, an independent authority responsible for protecting rights and freedoms and promoting equality. The Défenseur des droits has jurisdiction over discrimination complaints and has addressed appearance-based discrimination in employment. The institution's position on hair discrimination is relevant to the Serva bill's Senate consideration.
Data Commons
A shared, managed digital resource of data accessible to a defined community. CROWN's Hair Commons is designed as a research data commons — Europe's first open, multi-ethnic, sensor-verified hair dataset — providing anonymised, aggregated data for academic research, public policy, and (under tiered access) commercial applications.
Disulfide Bonds
Strong chemical bonds between cysteine amino acids in the keratin protein chains of hair. Disulfide bonds are responsible for hair's permanent shape — they determine whether hair is straight, wavy, curly, or coily. Chemical relaxers permanently break and reform these bonds to straighten hair, fundamentally altering the hair's structure. Heat styling temporarily breaks hydrogen bonds but does not affect disulfide bonds.
Dove CROWN Coalition
A coalition co-founded in 2019 by Dove, the National Urban League, Color of Change, and the Western Center on Law and Poverty to advance the CROWN Act in the United States. The coalition's research — particularly the finding that Black women's hair is 2.5 times more likely to be perceived as unprofessional — has been cited in every CROWN Act legislative hearing. CROWN is building the European equivalent of this evidence base.
E
Emotional Freedom Techniques (EFT)
An emerging-evidence therapeutic modality that combines elements of cognitive therapy with acupressure (tapping on specific meridian points). In CROWN's 360° Protocol, EFT is applied to processing specific traumatic discrimination memories. CROWN presents EFT transparently as an emerging-evidence modality under clinical investigation, with honest acknowledgement of mixed research findings.
Equality Act 2010 (UK)
The principal UK anti-discrimination statute, which consolidates and strengthens previous legislation. The Act identifies nine protected characteristics, including race. While hair is not explicitly named, indirect discrimination claims — where a policy disproportionately affects a racial group — could cover hair discrimination. The Equality and Human Rights Commission (EHRC) issued guidance on hair in schools in 2022.
Equal Treatment Directive
A proposed EU directive (the Horizontal Equal Treatment Directive) that would extend anti-discrimination protections beyond employment to cover social protection, education, and access to goods and services for all protected grounds. The directive has been stalled in the European Council since 2008. Its adoption would strengthen the legal basis for addressing hair discrimination across the EU.
ESG Reporting
Environmental, Social, and Governance reporting — a framework through which companies disclose their performance on sustainability metrics. The 'S' (Social) pillar includes workplace diversity, inclusion, and anti-discrimination measures. CROWN's CDI offers companies a validated metric for measuring and reporting on hair discrimination as part of their social performance, aligned with CSRD requirements.
EHRC
The Equality and Human Rights Commission, the UK's national equality body. The EHRC enforces the Equality Act 2010 and has issued guidance on hair in schools (2022). The EHRC has acknowledged that hair policies may constitute indirect racial discrimination but has not recommended specific hair protection legislation.
Eurocentric Beauty Standards
Beauty ideals rooted in European physical characteristics — including straight or wavy hair, light skin, and narrow facial features — that have been normalised as universal standards through colonialism, media representation, and institutional policies. The enforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards through grooming policies is a primary mechanism of hair discrimination.
Environmental Damage Score
A component of the CROWN Hair DNA profile that assesses the cumulative impact of environmental factors — including UV exposure, pollution, humidity, and hard water minerals — on hair health. The Environmental Damage Score is measured through a combination of optical micro-imaging (cuticle damage) and NIR spectroscopy (molecular degradation).
F
Fibre Diameter
The thickness of an individual hair strand, measured in micrometres. Fibre diameter varies across the scalp and along the length of a single strand. It is a critical determinant of hair behaviour, strength, and product response. CROWN's optical micro-imaging measures fibre diameter at 0.1 micrometre precision — far exceeding the capability of visual assessment.
Fitzpatrick Scale
A numerical classification system developed in 1975 by dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick that categorises human skin colour into six types based on response to ultraviolet light. The Fitzpatrick scale is widely used in dermatology and laser medicine. CROWN draws an analogy: what the Fitzpatrick scale did for dermatology — providing a standardised, clinically useful classification — CROWN Hair DNA aims to do for hair.
Federal Commission against Racism (EKR/CFR)
The Swiss Federal Commission against Racism (Eidgenössische Kommission gegen Rassismus / Commission fédérale contre le racisme), an extra-parliamentary commission that advises the Swiss Federal Council on racism and anti-discrimination policy. The EKR/CFR has not specifically addressed hair discrimination. CROWN positions its Swiss CDI research to inform the Commission's future deliberations.
G
Grooming Policy Audit
A systematic review of an organisation's dress code and appearance standards to identify provisions that may discriminate against individuals with textured hair or cultural hairstyles. CROWN's corporate programme includes grooming policy audits as a core module, assessing policies against emerging legislative standards and recommending evidence-based revisions.
GAD-7
The Generalised Anxiety Disorder 7-item scale, a validated self-report instrument measuring anxiety severity. The GAD-7 is used in CROWN's 360° Protocol clinical validation to measure changes in anxiety symptoms associated with identity-based discrimination.
GDPR (General Data Protection Regulation)
The European Union's comprehensive data protection regulation (Regulation 2016/679), establishing strict requirements for the collection, processing, and storage of personal data. CROWN's research infrastructure — including the Hair Commons, CDI surveys, and diagnostic data — is designed with GDPR compliance from inception, employing anonymisation at collection, privacy-by-design architecture, and ethical review processes.
Gender Inequality Index (GII)
A composite index published by the UNDP that measures gender-based disadvantage across reproductive health, empowerment, and labour market participation. The GII serves as a methodological model for CROWN's CDI, demonstrating how multidimensional inequality can be captured in a single comparable metric.
Gini Coefficient
A statistical measure of income or wealth inequality within a population, ranging from 0 (perfect equality) to 1 (perfect inequality). The Gini coefficient's approach to quantifying inequality is one of the methodological inspirations for CROWN's CDI, which similarly aims to reduce complex discrimination patterns to a comparable numerical index.
H
Hair Discrimination
Prejudice, bias, or unfavourable treatment directed at individuals based on their natural hair texture, hair type, or choice of hairstyle. Hair discrimination manifests in workplaces, schools, healthcare settings, and public spaces, disproportionately affecting people of African, Afro-Caribbean, and mixed heritage. It is increasingly recognised as a form of racial or ethnic discrimination requiring legal protection.
Hair Type 1A
The straightest hair type in the Walker system. Fine, thin, and completely straight with no wave or curl pattern. Typically very soft and can be difficult to hold curls. Predominantly associated with East Asian and Northern European populations.
Hair Type 1B
Straight hair with medium body and slight bends at the ends. More volume than 1A. The most common hair type globally. Can hold styles moderately well.
Hair Type 1C
Straight hair with coarse texture and subtle body waves. Thicker individual strands than 1A or 1B. May have slight natural volume. Common in South Asian and Mediterranean populations.
Hair Type 2A
Fine, loosely waved hair with an S-shaped pattern beginning around the mid-lengths. Tends to lie flat at the roots. Low frizz tendency. Relatively easy to straighten or curl.
Hair Type 2B
Medium-textured wavy hair with defined S-shaped waves from the mid-shaft. More prone to frizz than 2A. Moderate volume. May resist straightening.
Hair Type 2C
Coarse wavy hair with well-defined S-waves that begin at the crown. High volume, significant frizz tendency. Can border on curly. Some strands may form loose spirals.
Hair Type 3A
Loose, springy curls approximately the diameter of a piece of sidewalk chalk. Defined S-shaped or spiral curls. Shiny, well-defined when healthy. Prone to frizz in humidity.
Hair Type 3B
Tighter, springy curls approximately the diameter of a marker pen. Defined ringlets or corkscrews. More volume than 3A. High moisture needs. Common in mixed heritage individuals.
Hair Type 3C
Tight curls or coils approximately the diameter of a pencil. Densely packed, significant volume. High porosity tendency. Requires substantial moisture. Transitions between curly and coily categories.
Hair Type 4A
Tightly coiled hair with an S-pattern visible when stretched. Dense, springy coils. High shrinkage factor — hair may appear much shorter than its actual length when dry. Common in individuals of African descent.
Hair Type 4B
Tightly coiled hair with a Z-shaped or zigzag pattern. Less defined curl pattern than 4A. Significant shrinkage. Extremely fragile — requires careful handling. The most common Afro-textured hair type.
Hair Type 4C
The tightest coil pattern with minimal visible curl definition. Densely packed, very high shrinkage (up to 75%). Extremely fragile with high breakage susceptibility. Requires the most moisture and protective styling. This hair type is the most frequently subject to discriminatory grooming policies and conformity pressure.
Hair Porosity
A measure of the hair strand's ability to absorb and retain moisture, determined by the condition and arrangement of the cuticle layers. Low porosity hair has tightly overlapping cuticles and resists moisture absorption. High porosity hair has gaps or damage in the cuticle, absorbing moisture quickly but losing it rapidly. Porosity is a key dimension in CROWN Hair DNA profiling and is measured objectively via impedance sensing.
Hair Density
The number of individual hair strands per square centimetre of scalp. Hair density varies significantly between individuals and ethnic groups and is distinct from hair thickness (fibre diameter). Low density means fewer strands per area; high density means more. Hair density affects volume, coverage, and styling options and is a measurable dimension in CROWN's diagnostic profiling.
Hair Mineral Analysis
A diagnostic technique that analyses the mineral content of hair strands to assess nutritional status, toxic metal exposure, and metabolic function. While CROWN's diagnostic does not perform mineral analysis per se, NIR spectroscopy provides molecular composition data that complements traditional hair mineral analysis with non-destructive, real-time measurement.
Hydration Level
The moisture content of the hair strand, measured by CROWN's NIR spectroscopy and impedance sensing. Hydration level affects hair elasticity, strength, shine, and susceptibility to breakage. It is a critical dimension of the CROWN Hair DNA profile and varies significantly based on hair type, environmental conditions, and product use.
Hair Satisfaction
A psychological construct measuring an individual's contentment with their hair's appearance, manageability, and health. Hair satisfaction has been shown to correlate with overall self-esteem, body image, and mental wellbeing. The University of Connecticut's 2025 study found that 54% of Black girls aged 12 report hair-related teasing that negatively affects hair satisfaction and self-concept.
Halo Code
A voluntary pledge for organisations — primarily in the United Kingdom — to commit to creating a space where employees and students are free to wear their hair naturally without fear of judgement or discrimination. The Halo Code is not legally binding and relies on organisational goodwill. CROWN's approach differs: evidence-based measurement and legislative advocacy create enforceable protections rather than voluntary commitments.
Hair as Identity
The concept that hair is a fundamental expression of personal, cultural, racial, and gender identity. For many communities — particularly those of African and Afro-Caribbean heritage — hair carries meanings that extend far beyond aesthetics, encompassing cultural heritage, resistance, self-expression, and belonging. The denial of the right to wear natural hair is therefore an attack on identity itself.
Head Wraps
Fabric coverings worn around the head, with deep cultural roots across African, Caribbean, South Asian, and Middle Eastern traditions. Head wraps serve practical, cultural, religious, and aesthetic purposes. In the context of hair discrimination, head wraps are sometimes worn to protect natural hair from hostile environments and are included as protected styles in some CROWN Act legislation.
Human Development Index (HDI)
A composite statistical index published by the United Nations Development Programme that measures a country's development across three dimensions: health, education, and standard of living. CROWN's CDI is modelled on the HDI's approach of combining multiple dimensions into a single, comparable index that enables cross-country comparison and policy evaluation.
I
Impedance Sensing
A measurement technique that applies small alternating currents across a range of frequencies (100Hz-100kHz in CROWN's device) to determine electrical properties of a material. Applied to hair, impedance sensing quantifies moisture absorption rate and porosity — replacing subjective assessments ('this hair feels dry') with objective, reproducible measurements.
Internalised Texturism
The process by which individuals absorb and accept negative societal attitudes toward their own hair texture, leading to self-stigmatisation, shame, and attempts to alter natural hair. Internalised texturism is a specific manifestation of internalised racism and a primary target of CROWN's 360° Protocol. Research demonstrates it is associated with lower self-esteem, identity conflict, and reduced mental wellbeing.
Innosuisse
The Swiss Innovation Agency, the Swiss Confederation's instrument for promoting science-based innovation. Innosuisse funds collaborative research projects between academia and industry. CROWN's developing relationship with ETH Zürich could position the diagnostic device development for potential Innosuisse funding, which supports projects with both scientific merit and commercial potential.
Identity-Based Discrimination
Unfavourable treatment of individuals based on characteristics that form part of their personal or group identity, including race, ethnicity, gender, sexual orientation, religion, disability, and physical appearance. CROWN focuses specifically on identity-based discrimination related to hair and natural appearance, which intersects racial, gender, and cultural identity dimensions.
K
Keratin
The primary structural protein of hair, comprising approximately 90% of the hair shaft. Keratin's molecular structure — specifically the arrangement of disulfide bonds — determines hair strength, elasticity, and curl pattern. Chemical relaxers work by breaking these bonds. CROWN's NIR spectroscopy assesses keratin integrity as part of the Protein Integrity Index.
Keratin Treatment
A semi-permanent hair straightening treatment that coats the hair with a keratin protein solution, typically containing formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing agents, and is sealed with high heat. While marketed as a 'smoothing' treatment, keratin treatments raise health concerns due to formaldehyde exposure. The prevalence of keratin treatments is an indicator of conformity pressure measured by CROWN's CDI.
L
Locs (Dreadlocks)
Ropelike strands of hair formed by matting, braiding, or palm-rolling. Locs have spiritual significance in Rastafarian culture and are widely worn across the African diaspora. The term 'dreadlocks' is considered pejorative by many, as it derives from colonial characterisations of the style as 'dreadful.' Locs are among the hairstyles most frequently targeted by discriminatory grooming policies and are explicitly protected under CROWN Act legislation.
M
Microaggressions (Hair-Related)
Subtle, often unintentional comments, questions, or actions that communicate bias or hostility toward an individual's natural hair texture or hairstyle. Common examples include touching someone's hair without consent, expressing surprise that textured hair is 'soft,' commenting that a hairstyle looks 'unprofessional,' or asking if natural hair is 'real.' Research demonstrates that cumulative microaggressions have measurable psychological and professional consequences.
Mécénat
The French system of corporate and individual philanthropy, offering significant tax incentives for donations to qualifying non-profit organisations. Under French mécénat law, corporations can deduct 60% of donations up to EUR 2 million (40% above) from corporate tax liability. CROWN's dual-jurisdiction structure (Swiss association + French association) enables mécénat benefits for both Swiss and French donors.
Mixed Heritage Hair
Hair characteristics in individuals with parents or ancestors from different racial or ethnic backgrounds. Mixed heritage hair often presents unique challenges: varied curl patterns across the head, different textures at roots versus ends, and difficulty finding products or professionals with expertise across hair types. Mixed heritage individuals may face particular forms of texturism within both dominant and minority communities.
N
Natural Hair Movement
A social and cultural movement encouraging people — particularly those of African and Afro-Caribbean heritage — to embrace their natural hair texture rather than chemically altering it to conform to Eurocentric beauty standards. Originating in the United States in the early 2000s, the movement has grown into a global phenomenon encompassing personal identity, political expression, health advocacy, and anti-discrimination activism.
NIR Spectroscopy
Near-infrared spectroscopy, an analytical technique that uses light in the 900-1700nm wavelength range to determine the molecular composition of a sample without destroying it. In CROWN's diagnostic device, NIR spectroscopy measures hair hydration, protein structure (keratin integrity), lipid content, and chemical residue — providing objective evidence of chemical treatment history, which is directly linked to conformity pressure from discrimination.
Neurogenic Tremoring
The body's natural mechanism for releasing deep muscular tension through involuntary tremoring or shaking. Observed across mammalian species as a post-stress discharge mechanism. Tension and Trauma Release Exercises (TRE) are designed to safely induce neurogenic tremoring to release chronic tension patterns held in the body from sustained stress, including the stress of identity-based discrimination.
O
Optical Micro-Imaging
A diagnostic technique using high-magnification cameras (200x to 400x in CROWN's device) to capture detailed images of hair fibre structure. CROWN's optical micro-imaging measures fibre diameter at 0.1 micrometre precision, assesses cuticle layer count and condition, and determines cross-section shape — replacing subjective visual assessment with measurable structural data.
Olfactory-Limbic System
The neural pathway connecting the olfactory (smell) receptors directly to the limbic system, which governs emotion, memory, and arousal. This direct connection — unique among the senses — means that scent can trigger immediate emotional responses and access stored memories. CROWN's 360° Protocol uses aromatherapy to leverage this pathway, creating positive sensory anchors that support the therapeutic process.
P
Protective Hairstyles
Hairstyles designed to minimise manipulation, reduce breakage, and protect the ends of textured hair. Common protective styles include braids, twists, locs, Bantu knots, cornrows, and styles using extensions. Protective hairstyles have deep cultural and historical significance and are explicitly named in most CROWN Act legislation as protected expressions of racial and ethnic identity.
Protective Styling
The practice of wearing hairstyles that tuck away the ends of the hair and minimise daily manipulation to reduce breakage and promote hair retention. Protective styling is particularly important for textured hair types (3B-4C), which are more fragile due to their coiled structure. The concept reflects both practical haircare wisdom and cultural tradition.
Porosity Index
A numerical score quantifying a hair strand's ability to absorb and retain moisture, measured via impedance sensing in CROWN's diagnostic device. The porosity index replaces subjective tests (such as the 'float test') with a reproducible, sensor-verified measurement that can be tracked over time and compared across populations.
Protein Integrity Index
A measure of the structural health of the keratin proteins that comprise the hair cortex, assessed through NIR spectroscopy in CROWN's diagnostic device. Chemical treatments, heat damage, and environmental exposure degrade protein integrity. The protein integrity index provides objective evidence of cumulative hair damage.
Proposition de loi Serva
A French legislative bill introduced by Olivier Serva, Member of Parliament from Guadeloupe, proposing to recognise and sanction capillary discrimination. Passed by the National Assembly in March 2024 with a vote of 44 to 2. The bill is pending before the French Senate. If enacted, France would become the first European country with specific legal protections against hair discrimination.
Pioneer Fellowship (ETH)
An ETH Zürich programme providing CHF 150,000 over 18 months to support the transformation of research results into commercial products. A Pioneer Fellowship represents a potential pathway for CROWN's diagnostic device, supporting the transition from university research project to validated research instrument ready for deployment.
Psychology of Hair Conformity
The psychological mechanisms through which individuals alter their natural hair to conform to dominant beauty standards, driven by fear of professional penalties, social exclusion, and internalised bias. Research demonstrates that conformity pressure operates through both explicit policies (grooming codes) and implicit norms (workplace culture), with measurable consequences for mental health and economic outcomes.
PHQ-9
The Patient Health Questionnaire-9, a validated self-report instrument measuring depression severity on a 0-27 scale. The PHQ-9 is used in CROWN's 360° Protocol clinical validation (Phase 1 case series) to measure changes in depressive symptoms among participants receiving treatment for identity-based appearance discrimination trauma.
Privacy-by-Design
An approach to systems engineering that takes privacy into account throughout the design process, embedding data protection into the architecture rather than adding it after the fact. CROWN's diagnostic and data systems implement privacy-by-design principles: anonymisation occurs at the point of data collection, and the CROWN Hair Commons is structured so that individual participants cannot be re-identified from aggregated data.
R
Racial Equality Directive (2000/43/EC)
The foundational EU directive prohibiting discrimination on grounds of racial or ethnic origin in employment, education, social protection, and access to goods and services. Adopted in 2000, the directive does not explicitly mention hair texture or hairstyles, creating legal ambiguity about whether hair discrimination is covered. This gap in explicit coverage is a central argument for CROWN's legislative advocacy.
Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale
A widely used psychological instrument measuring global self-esteem through 10 items rated on a four-point scale. The Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale is used in CROWN's 360° Protocol clinical validation to assess changes in self-worth among participants receiving treatment for aesthetic trauma.
Randomised Controlled Trial (RCT)
The gold standard of clinical research methodology, in which participants are randomly assigned to treatment or control groups to determine the effectiveness of an intervention. CROWN's Phase 2 clinical validation of the 360° Protocol involves an RCT comparing the full protocol against CBT-only and waitlist control groups with 60 participants.
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Skinification of Hair
A trend in hair care science and the beauty industry that applies dermatological principles to hair and scalp health — treating the scalp as skin and hair strands as structures deserving the same scientific rigour as skin analysis. CROWN's diagnostic approach is aligned with skinification, applying clinical measurement standards from dermatology to hair assessment.
Swiss Federal Constitution Article 8
Article 8 of the Swiss Federal Constitution establishes the right to equality before the law and prohibits discrimination based on origin, race, gender, age, language, social position, way of life, religious, ideological, or political convictions, or physical, mental, or psychological disability. Hair is not explicitly named. CROWN's strategy in Switzerland focuses on building evidence through CDI research before proposing legislative expansion.
Swiss Association (Art. 60 CC)
A legal form under Articles 60 and following of the Swiss Civil Code (Code civil suisse). Swiss associations are non-profit membership organisations with legal personality, governed by statutes and a general assembly. CROWN is constituted as a Swiss association registered in the Canton of Geneva, with a 13-article statutes structure modelled on the CAGI template.
Shrinkage (Hair)
The difference between the stretched length and the natural resting length of curly or coily hair. Type 4C hair can exhibit up to 75% shrinkage, meaning hair that is 12 inches long when stretched may appear only 3 inches long in its natural state. Shrinkage is frequently misunderstood by those unfamiliar with textured hair and can contribute to discriminatory perceptions that natural hairstyles are 'unkempt' or 'short.'
Scalp Health
The condition of the skin on the head from which hair grows. Scalp health directly affects hair growth, strength, and appearance. CROWN's diagnostic device includes scalp health indicators as part of the CROWN Hair DNA profile, aligning with the 'skinification' approach that applies dermatological rigour to hair and scalp assessment.
Swiss nDSG
The Swiss Federal Act on Data Protection (neues Datenschutzgesetz), revised in 2020 and effective from 1 September 2023. The nDSG aligns Swiss data protection with GDPR standards while maintaining Swiss-specific provisions. CROWN's operations comply with both GDPR (for EU data subjects) and nDSG (for Swiss data subjects).
SIROP
The Student Research Opportunities Program, an ETH Zürich and University of Zürich platform where research groups list student project opportunities, including semester projects and master theses. CROWN's diagnostic device projects are listed on SIROP to recruit ETH students for sensor integration and classification system development.
Somatic Release
The process of releasing tension, stress, and trauma held in the body's tissues and musculature. Somatic approaches recognise that psychological trauma manifests physically and that addressing the body is essential for complete healing. CROWN's 360° Protocol integrates yoga, breathwork, and TRE as somatic modalities alongside cognitive approaches like CBT.
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Texturism
A form of discrimination based on hair texture, where straighter hair textures are privileged over curlier, coilier, or kinkier textures. Texturism operates both between and within racial and ethnic groups, affecting hiring decisions, school policies, and social acceptance. It is a subset of colourism and appearance-based discrimination, with measurable economic and psychological consequences.
Traction Alopecia
A form of hair loss caused by prolonged or repeated tension on the hair follicles. It is commonly associated with tight hairstyles such as braids, cornrows, weaves, or ponytails. Traction alopecia disproportionately affects individuals who use these styles to conform to workplace or school grooming standards, making it a direct physical consequence of hair discrimination. Early detection and cessation of tension can reverse the condition; prolonged damage causes permanent follicular scarring.
Trichoscopy
A non-invasive diagnostic technique using dermoscopy to examine the hair and scalp at magnification, typically used to diagnose hair loss conditions. CROWN's optical micro-imaging operates at higher magnification (200-400x) than standard trichoscopy and focuses on fibre-level structural characterisation rather than scalp pathology.
Twists
Hairstyles created by twisting two strands of hair around each other. Twists are a popular protective style for textured hair, reducing daily manipulation and protecting the ends from breakage. Two-strand twists, flat twists, and Senegalese twists are common variations. Twists are named as a protected style in CROWN Act legislation.
Tension and Trauma Release Exercises (TRE)
An emerging-evidence body-based modality developed by Dr. David Berceli that uses a series of exercises to induce neurogenic tremoring — the body's natural mechanism for releasing deep muscular tension. In CROWN's 360° Protocol, TRE is applied to release chronic physical tension held in the body from sustained discrimination stress. CROWN presents TRE transparently as an emerging-evidence modality.
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Walker Curl Pattern System
A hair classification system created by Andre Walker that categorises hair into four main types (1 through 4) with subcategories (A, B, C). Type 1 is straight, Type 2 is wavy, Type 3 is curly, and Type 4 is coily or kinky. While widely used as a consumer reference, the system is based on subjective visual assessment and does not account for fibre diameter, porosity, hydration, protein structure, or chemical treatment history — limitations that CROWN Hair DNA addresses through sensor-verified measurement.
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Yoga Therapy
The application of yogic practices — including postures (asanas), breathing techniques, and meditation — as a therapeutic intervention for physical and psychological conditions. In CROWN's 360° Protocol, yoga therapy focuses on somatic release and body reconnection, addressing the physical manifestation of identity-based stress and helping participants reclaim a positive relationship with their bodies.
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